Tofu is not an exciting food. It has no color, a mild but not especially appealing flavor, and a nondescript texture that’s soft but not rich or creamy.  In an egg-free household, though, tofu’s blandness makes it useful. I’ve added it to smoothies for a protein boost and used it as a stand-in for ricotta in lasagna and for eggs in brownies. But I’ve never been inclined to let it take center stage in my cooking.

Then one day I had a desperate craving for my favorite of all egg dishes, huevos rancheros, and decided to give tofu it’s big break. I crumbled a block into a skillet with chopped veggies and salsa, toasted a corn tortilla, sliced an avocado, and in 10 minutes had a hearty, healthy breakfast on the table. Vegans have been scrambling tofu for ages, and with good reason: It’s quick, it’s good for you, and — when combined with some bold flavors — it’s delicious!

Tofu rancheros

Serves 4

One 14-oz. package firm tofu

About 3 tbsp. olive oil, divided

1 zucchini, finely diced

1 red bell pepper, finely diced

1 bunch scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced

1 c. salsa

Salt, to taste

4 corn tortillas

1 avocado, sliced

Drain the tofu, wrap it in a clean dish towel or a double layer of paper towels, and press it between two heavy dinner plates to remove excess moisture.

Warm a large skillet over medium-high heat. Drizzle in 2 tbsp. oil, then add zucchini.  Cook 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add pepper and scallions and cook 2 minutes more. Crumble the tofu into bite-sized pieces into the pan and add salsa. Lower heat to medium and cook, stirring gently so tofu doesn’t disintegrate, about 5 minutes or until warmed through. Season with salt if needed and set aside.

Heat the oven to 150 degrees. Warm a small skillet over medium-high heat.  Drizzle in 1 tsp. oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Toast one tortilla in the pan, a minute or two on each side, until hot and softened and pockets of air start to form under its surface. Remove to a plate and keep warm in the oven while you cook the remaining tortillas.

To serve, top each tortilla with one quarter of the scrambled tofu and one quarter of the sliced avocado.

Tofu scramble with mushrooms, spinach, and bacon

This elegant, company-worthy scramble is rich and earthy with an assertive lemon flavor.

Serves 4

One 14-0z. package firm tofu

Canola oil

4 slices bacon

1 yellow onion, chopped

1 lb. cremini or white mushrooms, sliced

Juice of 1 lemon (scant 1/4 c.)

2 handfuls baby spinach

Salt and freshly ground, black pepper, to taste

Press tofu to remove extra liquid.

Fry bacon in a very lightly oiled skillet until crisp. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside.

Discard all but 2 tbsp. bacon fat from the skillet. Raise heat to medium and add onion.  Cook 2 minutes, then add mushrooms and a generous pinch of salt. Raise heat to medium high and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms release their liquid and the liquid begins to evaporate. Crumble in the tofu — aim for bite-sized pieces — then add lemon juice and a few grindings of pepper.  Lower heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally (and gently, so the tofu doesn’t disintegrate), until tofu is heated through, about 5 minutes. Fold in spinach and cook until wilted.  Season with additional salt as needed.  Serve immediately.

Make it vegan: I haven’t tried it, but tempeh bacon would probably give this dish the smoky flavor it needs. If you make the substitution, use olive oil to saute the vegetables.