Vegetarian


Savory, rustic bread crumbs add depth and texture to this simple, cheeseless pasta dish.

Spaghetti with chickpeas, zucchini, and bread crumbs

Serves at least 4

About 3/4 pound uncooked spaghetti

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

3 zucchini, chopped

3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, depending on how hot you like it

One 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)

1 cup toasted bread crumbs

Salt, to taste

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil.  Add spaghetti and cook until done.  Drain, reserving about 1 cup of the cooking water.

Meanwhile, warm a large skillet over medium-high heat.  Drizzle in about 1 1/2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then add the zucchini.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and just tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt.  Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute more.  Transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Add the chickpeas, parsley, lemon juice, and hot pasta to the zucchini mixture.  Drizzle in the remaining olive oil and toss to coat.  Add pasta cooking water as needed for a loose, but not wet, consistency (about 1/2 c. should do it).  Stir in the bread crumbs and season with additional salt, to taste.  Serve immediately.

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You don’t need a recipe to make a fantastic stir-fry.  You just need to follow a few simple steps:

1. Get your pan good and hot.  I don’t have a wok or a stove with an impressive number of BTUs, so I use a well-seasoned cast iron skillet for stir-frying.  It handles and retains high heat and is naturally non-stick.  If you’re adding meat, poultry, shellfish, or tofu to your stir-fry and like a nice sear on it, as I do, cook it first.  Then remove it from the pan before you add the vegetables.

2. Cut your veg into bite-sized pieces so they cook quickly and evenly.  Take the various cooking times of different vegetables into consideration.  Put tougher or meatier vegetables (like carrots, eggplant, and mushrooms) in the pan first, then add tender vegetables (snow peas, scallions) toward the end of cooking.  Go easy on the salt if your sauce is soy based.

3. Add a killer sauce.  I like a sauce that’s a little salty, a little tangy, and a little spicy.  Make sure you have enough — your stir-fry shouldn’t be soupy, but it shouldn’t be dry, either, especially if you’re serving it with rice.

Tofu vegetable skillet

Serves 4

For sauce:

5 cloves garlic

Salt

2 tablespoons grated, peeled ginger

4 teaspoons unseasoned rice vinegar

2 tablespoons tamari (or other soy sauce)

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

For tofu and vegetables:

1 tablespoon canola oil

12 oz. package extra-firm tofu

12 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced

Salt

2 cups snow peas, trimmed

1 red bell pepper, diced

1 bunch scallions, white and tender green parts, sliced

2 heads baby bok choy, sliced

Make sauce:

Finely chop the garlic.  Sprinkle the garlic with a pinch of salt and use the flat side of a chef’s knife to mash it into a paste.  Put garlic in a small mixing bowl.  Add ginger, vinegar, tamari, and oils.  Whisk until well combined.

Cook tofu and vegetables:

Drain the tofu and wrap it in two layers of paper towels.  Press the tofu between two heavy dinner plates to remove excess moisture.  Cut the tofu in half through its equator to make two thin slices the same length and width as the original block.  Blot the cut sides dry.

Heat half the oil in a cast iron or non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.  Sear the slices of tofu until lightly browned on both sides.  Remove tofu to a cutting board and cut into bite-sized cubes.  Set aside.

Drizzle the remaining oil into the skillet and add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are softened, 3 or 4 minutes.  Add remaining vegetables and continue cooking until peas are bright green, about 2 or 3 minutes more.  Add cubed tofu and sauce and stir to combine.

Serve over brown rice.

Tofu is not an exciting food. It has no color, a mild but not especially appealing flavor, and a nondescript texture that’s soft but not rich or creamy.  In an egg-free household, though, tofu’s blandness makes it useful. I’ve added it to smoothies for a protein boost and used it as a stand-in for ricotta in lasagna and for eggs in brownies. But I’ve never been inclined to let it take center stage in my cooking.

Then one day I had a desperate craving for my favorite of all egg dishes, huevos rancheros, and decided to give tofu it’s big break. I crumbled a block into a skillet with chopped veggies and salsa, toasted a corn tortilla, sliced an avocado, and in 10 minutes had a hearty, healthy breakfast on the table. Vegans have been scrambling tofu for ages, and with good reason: It’s quick, it’s good for you, and — when combined with some bold flavors — it’s delicious!

Tofu rancheros

Serves 4

One 14-oz. package firm tofu

About 3 tbsp. olive oil, divided

1 zucchini, finely diced

1 red bell pepper, finely diced

1 bunch scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced

1 c. salsa

Salt, to taste

4 corn tortillas

1 avocado, sliced

Drain the tofu, wrap it in a clean dish towel or a double layer of paper towels, and press it between two heavy dinner plates to remove excess moisture.

Warm a large skillet over medium-high heat. Drizzle in 2 tbsp. oil, then add zucchini.  Cook 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, then add pepper and scallions and cook 2 minutes more. Crumble the tofu into bite-sized pieces into the pan and add salsa. Lower heat to medium and cook, stirring gently so tofu doesn’t disintegrate, about 5 minutes or until warmed through. Season with salt if needed and set aside.

Heat the oven to 150 degrees. Warm a small skillet over medium-high heat.  Drizzle in 1 tsp. oil and swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Toast one tortilla in the pan, a minute or two on each side, until hot and softened and pockets of air start to form under its surface. Remove to a plate and keep warm in the oven while you cook the remaining tortillas.

To serve, top each tortilla with one quarter of the scrambled tofu and one quarter of the sliced avocado.


Tofu scramble with mushrooms, spinach, and bacon

This elegant, company-worthy scramble is rich and earthy with an assertive lemon flavor.

Serves 4

One 14-0z. package firm tofu

Canola oil

4 slices bacon

1 yellow onion, chopped

1 lb. cremini or white mushrooms, sliced

Juice of 1 lemon (scant 1/4 c.)

2 handfuls baby spinach

Salt and freshly ground, black pepper, to taste

Press tofu to remove extra liquid.

Fry bacon in a very lightly oiled skillet until crisp. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate and set aside.

Discard all but 2 tbsp. bacon fat from the skillet. Raise heat to medium and add onion.  Cook 2 minutes, then add mushrooms and a generous pinch of salt. Raise heat to medium high and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms release their liquid and the liquid begins to evaporate. Crumble in the tofu — aim for bite-sized pieces — then add lemon juice and a few grindings of pepper.  Lower heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally (and gently, so the tofu doesn’t disintegrate), until tofu is heated through, about 5 minutes. Fold in spinach and cook until wilted.  Season with additional salt as needed.  Serve immediately.

Make it vegan: I haven’t tried it, but tempeh bacon would probably give this dish the smoky flavor it needs. If you make the substitution, use olive oil to saute the vegetables.

If you have a kid with food allergies — especially one who loves chocolate as much as mine does — eventually the candy holidays start to get to you.  Swapping a Halloween haul of peanut butter cups and M&Ms for a handful of Dum Dums is standard practice in our house.  The Easter Bunny brings us jelly beans, but not the speckled, malted eggs that were my childhood favorite.  And as for the red cellophane-wrapped, heart-shaped boxes of caramel- and praline-filled confections… well, I’ve (almost) stopped thinking about those.

But all is not lost.  With a little extra effort — very little, in fact — Valentine’s Day can be a decadent holiday once more. Turns out, if you can open a bag of chocolate chips and push the buttons on a microwave, you can make some pretty special treats for your beloved little ones.

Unlike couverture chocolate, which requires a fussy heating and cooling process called tempering to keep molded chocolates from melting at room temperature, chocolate chips are made with stabilizing ingredients that help them set up again after exposure to heat (think chocolate chip cookies).  Not having to worry about the temperature of your chocolate lets you focus on the creative part of candy making: filling and decorating!  I used whimsical toppings like sprinkles and marshmallows  and imitated classics with Rice Krispies and creamy Sunbutter filling.  Use your imagination!  And have a super sweet Valentine’s Day.

Easy Homemade Valentine Chocolates

About 1 c. chocolate chips (enough to yield 30, 1-inch hearts)

Candy molds

A glass liquid measuring cup for melting chocolate (the glass retains heat so your chocolate won’t set up too fast while you work) and a small rubber spatula

Fillings and decorations of your choice.  I used rainbow sprinkles, halved mini marshmallows, Rice Krispies, and Sunbutter (instructions below).  Chopped dried fruits or nuts would also work.

Assemble all of your ingredients before you begin.  Make sure your molds, measuring cup, and spatula are clean and dry.

Melt chocolate chips in the measuring cup in the microwave.  Start with 60 seconds on high power.  Stir well with the spatula, then continue heating on high for 20 seconds at a time until chocolate is melted and smooth. Make sure the chocolate is not just melted but warm and somewhat fluid — if it doesn’t get hot enough, it won’t set up correctly when cooled.

Pour chocolate into molds.  Using a spatula will help you control the chocolate and keep it from overfilling the molds or dripping.  Tap the mold gently on the counter to settle the chocolate and remove air bubbles.  Decorate as desired, then put the molds in the freezer — this helps the chocolates set up quickly, making them easy to remove.

To decorate with sprinkles or colored sugar, fill the molds to the top then sprinkle evenly while still very soft.

To decorate with marshmallows, fill the molds nearly to the top, then partially submerge a halved mini marshmallow in the chocolate.  This would work with raisins or dried cherries, too.

To decorate with Rice Krispies, fill the molds about half way, sprinkle on a few Krispies, then fill with a little more chocolate.  Tap mold on the counter to settle chocolate around cereal.

To make a Sunbutter, peanut butter, or other nut butter filling, stir a tablespoonful with enough confectioner’s sugar to form a dough-like consistency (do this before you melt the chocolate).  Roll a tiny amount of filling into a ball and flatten into a disc.  Fill molds half way with chocolate.  Let sit for a minute to firm up a bit, then place disc of filling in the center of the mold.  Fill with a little more chocolate, then tap mold on the counter to cover filling.

Once set, store chocolates at room temperature.

As an on-the-go breakfast or after-school snack, portable, kid-friendly granola bars are a boon to busy families. When it comes to nutrition, though, all bars are not created equal. They can be reasonably virtuous or downright decadent.  My whole-grain, high-protein recipe is a little of both — hearty and satisfying, dense and chewy, and just sweet enough.

Chewy sunflower seed granola bars

Yield:  16, 2-inch squares

2 c. rolled oats

1 c. raw sunflower seeds

1 c. raisins

1/2 c. toasted wheat germ or unsweetened, shredded coconut

1/2 tsp. fine sea salt

1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

1/3 c. brown sugar

1/3 c. canola or safflower oil

1/3 c. sunflower seed butter

1/3 c. honey or maple syrup

1 tbsp. hot water

1 tsp. vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Measure oats into the work bowl of a food processor.  Pulse about a dozen times — some of the oats should be ground to a flour-like consistency, some oats should be whole, and the rest should be somewhere in between.  Pour processed oats into a large  mixing bowl.  Stir in sunflower seeds, raisins, wheat germ or coconut, salt, and cinnamon.

In a separate mixing bowl, whisk together brown sugar, oil, sunflower seed butter, honey or syrup, hot water, and vanilla.  Fold into oat mixture with a rubber spatula, stirring until evenly moistened.

Lightly oil an 8 x 8-inch baking dish.  Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit the bottom of the pan and extend up and over two of the sides (this will help you get the baked granola bars out of the pan).  Press paper into pan, smoothing out bottom and up sides.  Lightly oil paper.  Spoon granola mixture into pan and press down very firmly with an oiled spatula to form a compact, even layer.

Bake 35-40 minutes, until edges are nicely browned.  Let cool completely (summon all your will power — if you try to cut them when warm, they will crumble).  Use parchment paper overhang to lift granola from pan.  Place on a cutting board and, using a long, serrated knife and firm downward pressure, slice into 16 squares (if you don’t have a good knife, you may want to chill them a bit in the refrigerator before cutting).  Wrap each square in a small piece of wax paper, and store in a tightly sealed container.

Canned beans are convenient, but for soup I prefer dried ones.  Not because the dried beans taste better — canned varieties, especially organic ones, are just as good — but because of the rich, earthy liquid left behind after they cook.  Flavorful and full-bodied, this cooking liquid makes an outstanding soup base — all you need add are some vegetables, maybe some grains, and a little stock or water.

Chickpea and swiss chard soup

Makes about 4 quarts

1/2 lb. dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained

1/2 c. wheat berries

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 Spanish onion, finely chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

2 carrots, peeled and diced

3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

15 oz. can diced tomatoes

1 bunch swiss chard, stemmed and roughly chopped

1 qt. vegetable or chicken stock

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Measure wheat berries into a small saucepan and cover with cold water by about three inches.  Season lightly with salt and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until wheat berries are chewy but no longer tough, about 1 hour.  Drain and set aside.  (Can be done a day or so in advance.)

In a large saucepan, cover drained chickpeas with three inches of cold water.  Bring to a hard boil and skim the froth off the surface.  Reduce heat and simmer until nearly tender, at least one hour.  Season generously with salt and cook until done.  Drain, reserving cooking liquid. (Can be done a day or so in advance.)

Warm a large soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat.  Drizzle in oil, then add onion, celery, and carrot.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are very tender, about 10 minutes.  Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute more.  Add can of tomatoes and cook, stirring, until juices are thickened, about 4 minutes.

Add swiss chard to pot and cook, stirring, until wilted.  Stir in chickpeas, wheat berries, stock, and about 4 cups of reserved bean cooking liquid.  Bring to a simmer and cook briefly to meld flavors.  Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Don’t have wheat berries? Cooked barley, kasha (buckwheat groats), farro, rice, and short pasta shapes are all good in soup.

Or chickpeas? I like white beans — from tiny navy beans to fat cannellinis — in brothy vegetable soups.

Or chard? Greens are good in bean soups because their natural bitterness complements the beans’ starchy creaminess.  Tougher greens, like kale, need to simmer for at least 15 minutes to soften.  Tender spinach is done when it wilts — you can stir it into the finished soup.

Or tomatoes? Bean and vegetable soups need acid for balance — if you don’t have tomatoes, try adding a splash of lemon juice or vinegar at the end of cooking.

Not too sweet and just spicy enough, these quick pickles will keep for weeks in the fridge.  Outstanding with egg salad, cream cheese on toast, or just straight from the jar, in our house they’re gone in a matter of days.  You can use the brine to pickle string beans or green tomatoes, as well.

Sweet and hot refrigerator pickles

Makes about 3 pints

2 lbs. pickling cucumbers, sliced 1/4-inch thick

1 yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced

3 tbsp. kosher salt

3 c. ice cubes

2 c. cider vinegar

1 1/2 c. granulated sugar

1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper (or more, if you like your pickles really hot)

1/2 tsp. coriander seed

1/4 tsp. tumeric

8 whole cloves

In a large mixing bowl, toss together cucumbers, onion, and salt. Cover mixture with a clean, dry dishtowel, then cover surface with ice cubes (keeping the salted cucumbers very cold ensures crunchy pickles). Refrigerate for about 3 hours, until vegetables have released some liquid.  Rinse well under cold running water to remove excess salt.  Drain and set aside.

In a large saucepan, combine vinegar, sugar, and spices.  Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add vegetables to pot and bring to just under a boil.  Remove pan from heat.  Using a slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to jars or other containers with tight-fitting lids.  Cover vegetables with brine, cover containers, and refrigerate.

Pickles keep, refrigerated, for several weeks.

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